Eyebrow How To: Shaping

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How To: Makeup | March 16, 2013

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Second to beautiful skin, eyebrows are THE key to a polished and balanced face.  When eyebrows are unkempt or poorly shaped, it can throw off the entire balance of your face.  If you have never shaped your brows–be prepared for a little discomfort.  If your brows are misshapen or over-tweezed, try letting them grow in for 2 weeks before starting fresh.  Here is what you will need:

Tweezers, Teething Gel, Eyeliner Pencil, Cottonball, Makeup Remover, Eyebrow Filler and Brush, Eyebrow Gel or Wax.

  1. As a rule, you must have a pair of good tweezers.  I recommend Tweezerman because they are perfectly angled and chiseled to perfection, which equals easy grasping and less pain!  Junky tweezers have got to go.
  2. If you are allergic to pain or have super sensitive skin, consider buying teething gel and applying to the area prior to tweezing.  This will numb the area.
  3. Grab an eyeliner pencil and hold it up to your eye, using the chart below as your guideline for proper proportions.  Letter A shows where the brow should begin in relation to the nose and lips.  Mark the excess hair to be removed with the eyeliner pencil, then move to letter B.
  4. Again, hold the eyeliner pencil to your face as shown in letter B (notice it is placed at the outside of the iris).  Using the eyeliner pencil, carefully mark where your arch should be.
  5. For letter C, do the same.  This is the extent to which your eyebrow should extend.  Period.  If it doesn’t reach that far, it is OK.  That is where eyebrow fillers come in.  Carefully mark the end point with your eyeliner pencil.
  6. Lastly, make sure the eyebrow is level by holding your eyeliner pencil as letter D shows.  If not, mark accordingly.
  7. Select an image of an eyebrow thickness you admire.  While thickness may be different from person to person, proportion is generally not.
  8. Using your index and middle fingers, pull the skin taut with one hand.  Using your marks as a guide, carefully shape the brow being careful not to over-do it.  Don’t worry if you are naturally sparse.  That is what eyebrow fillers are for.
  9. Always tweeze in the direction of the hair growth.  It is less painful and won’t create ingrown hairs in the future!
  10. Gently remove the eyeliner guides with a cotton ball and makeup remover.
  11. Once complete, select a shade of brow filler that is one shade lighter than your hair color.  This is biggest mistake people make by far and can kill your beautiful work.  For a natural look we recommend an eyebrow powder and angled brush, but pencils are great for a more dramatic and defined look.  Stencils are another great way to get statement brows.  Carefully fill in the brow from beginning to end, with special attention to the sparse areas.  Extend the length of the brow as necessary.
  12. DO NOT FORGET to use a brow wax or gel to hold them in place and polish them off.
  13. Voila!  You are ready for your close-up!

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